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SHANGHAI FOOD STORIES - HAIPAI 海派 CUISINE

Picture source:Wikipedia.org
After Shanghai opened its gates to foreign traders, the locals  quickly opened their hearts and stomachs to the Western food. According to documentary records, the first Western restaurant, Xiang Fan, was founded in Fuzhou Road. At that time, Western dishes were also known as "Fan dishes".
Shanghai  Western Cuisine – Haipai 海派 Cuisine -  absorbed the traditions of several cuisines from other regions of China and of Western cooking.Yet, it was the Russian community and their two dishes: borscht and buttered bread (butterbrot) that gained a great popularity in Shanghai due to their low prices.
By the end of 1937, Shanghai had more than 200 Haipai restaurants, most of them were located in Xiafei Road (today’s Middle Huaihai Road) and Fuzhou Road.
The establishment of the rule of the Communist Party of China was a turning point in the development of Shanghai Western cuisine. A large number of Western-style restaurants closed down during this period, and only in the Huangpu District 18 restaurants remained after adopting the pattern of public-private Joint Management. Besides, due to a shortage of supplies at the time, "going to western restaurants" was not a common thing for ordinary people. However, the Shanghai people still tried every means to enjoy western food in this difficult era. One way was to use a variety of local ingredients instead of importing Western ingredients,such as using  self-roll soda crackers in lieu of bread powder.
Since the reform and opening up in China, the number of authentic Chinese restaurants in Shanghai has increased dramatically. On the contrary, the numbers of Western-style restaurants that offer Haipai dishes have  declined gradually, and a lot of them shut off in the 1990s.

3 MOST POPULAR HAIPAI DISHES

1.Shanghai-style borscht

Picture source:Wikipedia

Quite different from its Russian origin, the Chinese-style borscht (luó sòng tāng), originated in Harbin, close to the Russian border in northeast China, and has spread as far as Shanghai and Hong Kong. A Shanghai variety appeared when the Russian emigrees settled down in the former French Concession in the early 20th century. The recipe was changed by removing beetroot and using ketchup to color the soup as well as to add to its sweetness, because Shanghai's climate was bad for planting beets and the soup's original taste of sour was alien for the local people. Later they usually fried the ketchup in oil to reduce its taste of sour, then put white sugar in the soup to make it both sour and sweet. Some recipes would contain beef soup, sausages and potatoes. As more and more people made borscht at home, its recipes changed to please the different tastes of its makers. The soup is often accompanied by rice.

2.Shanghai style fried pork chops

Picture source:Wikipedia.org

The Shanghai-style fried pork chop is a local variety of breaded cutlet. It is particularly popular as street food. The pork chop is coated with bread flour before being fried to avoid too much greasiness and to be crispy outside but tender inside. Back to the old days when supplies were badly needed in Shanghai, soda crackers were crushed to replace bread flour, which produced a different unique flavor. In Shanghai, the pork chop is enjoyed together with the special local 'la jiang you' sauce, whose taste and ingredients are somewhat different from the British Worcestershire sauce.

3.Potato salad

Picure source:Wikipedia.org
Usually known as Shanghai-style salad, the potato salad is a local variety of the Russian Olivier salad. It is made by mixing salad dressing and shredded boiled potatoes and diced sausages. It also goes with minced turnips and diced peas.
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