As most of you probably know, 2018 Shanghai Fashion Week kicked off a few days ago. It inspired us to take a look back at the evolution of Shanghai ( and China in general) fashion, from the beginning of 20th century.
For hundreds of years China and its clothing styles had been isolated from the rest of the world. With one exception – China’s hub of East- meets – West cultural exchange, open to new and foreign ideas, inventions and obviously – clothing.
Here’s how it unfolded.
Turn of the Century
Major trend
Tiny, narrow, feet (the ideal was 7cm or 3 inches) – the “golden lotus” ideal - often a prerequisite for finding a husband.
Bound feet handicapped the walk , so this proved an excellent method for restricting women to the home, increasing their dependence on men, and eliminating the possibility of participation in politics and social life. This practice was outlawed in 1902 and 1912, but really came to an end in 1949.
When it comes to clothing, traditional, loose-fitting Chinese jackets with wide sleeves and trousers were the most popular. Towards the end of the Qing Dynasty, trousers had replaced skirts in popularity among the commoners.
1911-1920
Major trend
Dress that still reflected traditional Chinese costume, but started to resemble modern qipao
(cheongsam). It was originally a Manchurian outfit, but the Han Chinese adopted it later in the 1920s.
Women wore traditional jacket over a plain, more Western-style skirt. The jacket and qipao have the same the high collar and diagonal fastening on one side.
1920s - 1930s aka "The Old Shanghai"
The most glamorous and most stylish period in China in 20th century, on par with Paris.” You could be a cosmopolitan Parisian or Londoner, but you were simply not chic enough if you had not been to Shanghai” - Chiu - Ti Jansen
More traditional silks embellished with embroidery were replaced by cheaper contemporary textiles, which introduced a greater variety of designs.
Rich, contemporary Art Deco had a significant influence on the increased popularity of geometric patterns.
1940-1949
Major trend
Western clothes but with Chinese element, for example Western style dress but with Chinese buttons or fitted qipao with raised hemlines.
1949 - late 1960s
Major trend
Mao Suit or Lenin Suit
Mao Suit
From his earliest days in power, Mao Zedong recognized the voice of dress to present a shared national identity. The shapeless four-pocketed worker's jacket he favored became the dominant dress for Chinese men and women in those times.
Lenin Suit
Women also wore the fashionable Lenin suit worn by Soviet leader Vladimir Lenin - a jacket-and-trouser combination featuring a large turned-down collar, side buttons, and side pocket.
The general trend were standardized uniforms that showed no differences in rank or sex. Men and women wore exactly the same garments. People dressed in blue or gray cotton, padded for winter wear, and clothing made of expensive fabric was discouraged.
Late 1960s - 1970s
Major trend
Blue, gray, army green and black military outfits. Worker overalls were still very much a typical style of dress during this era as well.
1980s Opening Up
Major trend
Colors and mini skirts .
Colorful clothing from Western countries became more acceptable and the trend remained, or even exceeded the West today ;)
